Best Way to Choose Organic Haircare Products

“Natural” and “organic” are words that are commonly used on packaging to describe haircare products, but are virtually meaningless. Follow this guide to truly natural treatments.

According to experts such as Ronnie McGrail, founder of Danish ultra-natural beauty company Urtekram (which is Danish for “good things,”) “the scalp is the most absorbent part of the body’s skin, particularly the very top (or pate).” What’s more, the drying detergent action of shampoo, which interferes with the scalp’s natural barrier function, makes it even easier for chemicals to penetrate. Yet increasingly, manufacturers are suggesting that shampoo be left on the scalp as a “treatment” before rinsing, and some leave-in conditioners are designed not to be rinsed off at all.

There is probably more hype about “natural” ingredients in haircare than any other area of cosmetics, some of which brazenly call themselves organic. Many are far removed from what The Soil Association in Britain would define as an organic product.

Water and detergent make up almost all of a conventional shampoo’s formulation, featuring at the beginning of ingredient labels (which must be listed in descending order), with the active elements, often adding up to no more than one percent. It is not whether the tiny amount of herbs in a product have organic certification that really matters; it is what makes up the bulk of the hair product formulation.

You might want to be aware of particular concerns about certain detergents. Steer clear of cocamide DEA, ammonium laureth sulfate, and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), which has been questioned as a cancer-causing ingredient (although a research panel organized by the independent Cosmetic Ingredient Review, based in Washington, concluded that “SLS appears to be safe in formulations designed for discontinuous, brief use, followed by thorough rinsing.”)

In your quest for organic haircare products, avoid highly perfumed shampoos and conditioner – the fragrance alone may contain up to 200 different chemicals and synthetic colors that have a number preceded by FD&C.

In a world where organic has become synonymous with purity and

health, it is all too easy to be seduced, at first glance, by so-called “natural” haircare. Once again, reading labels is important. Buying products in a natural food store helps also, since most of their brands are striving to create truly natural products.

I would love to say that making your own shampoo is practical. It certainly can be done, but it is complicated to create an effective product at home -requiring the use of grated castile soap (which is olive-oil-based), or soapwort herb, which may deliver less-than-acceptable results in a world that worships squeaky clean hair.

It is more practical to use shampoo bought in a natural foodstore, such as those bought from Dr. Hauschka, Weleda, Logona, Green People, Urtekram, Aubrey Organics, Avalon Organics, Aveda, and Neways. Many of them are more concentrated than the shampoos you’re used to – so a little goes a long way. Reducing the water content in shampoo means that manufacturers can use minimum (or even zero) preservatives. Aim to buy conditioner from the same brands or create your own, easy-to-blend, bliss-to-use masks, rinses, and treatment oils, suited to your hairtype.

Hair in the sun

Hair is very vulnerable to sun, salt, and chlorine, so it needs protecting. Colored, permed, curly, and fine types are particularly porous and need even more care and attention. Go for easy-care styles, or wear your hair up or under a hat.

To protect hair against chlorine, dilute one part grapeseed oil to 15 parts water in a spray bottle. Shake to mix well and spray onto damp hair; comb out and don’t rinse before going in the water.